Sunday, February 22, and our mission (our destination) was a particular market (Tianguis Mojoneras), across town, our carriage by bus C24. We were ready at 8:35, a few minutes later than planned, but walked through the local popups, which had begun their Sunday by setting up for food service. “Not today” we said. We’re going to the market, and are cleaned-up and dressed in a Sunday manner. As we walked, we noticed a black-cloud-spewing sky somewhat far away to the South. Something was burning, and it looked not too far away, and it stunk. (stank?)
We waited in front of a local farmacia – a lovely place where you can get just about anything you need, including medicines of all sorts. The person there was busy sweeping the dust from the doorstep and the trash from the entryway, while we waited for the one bus that hadn’t come in 45 minutes (should be one every 8 minutes), although perhaps 15-20 others had been by. We had just given up and called for a Didi (Uber equivalent) when two official military trucks, bristling with boys with rifles came driving by announcing on loudspeakers, signaling and waving at us, somewhat frantically – “Go, go home! Get inside! Shooters! Now!”
Most people looked at each other. I asked for translation help, others looked toward the black billowing smoke, and shared a look of concern. Suddenly, the energy in the street changed, and people walked with purpose, all looking carefully around for signs of shooters. But, no panic. Our phone rang from the landlord, and he told us to go back to our casita immediately, because there was a protest – burning cars, unrest, and dangerous unknowns were afoot. We argued that we were going North – away from the smoke. He said, “No! It’s all over Jalisco”! As we realized there may have been a reason for no buses and no Didi, we turned around and they were in the process of closing the farmacia.
We went back and now noticed the smoke in the North as well. Markets will be another day. By the time we got home, Lew had gotten an AI breakdown of what the trouble was. There is a cartel that responds with violence to the killiong of some their leader in a sense of intimidation and threat. There were, by now, cars, buses and buildings burning all over the city, if the smoke signals we could see were any indication. Barricades. They created barricades for military. A shooting and torched vehicles happened in Costco, and at the airport too. People were stranded inside Sam’s club for 5 hours. The air is poor. We are tucked away, with no cars to worry about, buses parked across the street in front. I think that if the local eateries are open, we may head out across the street later. Such excitement!
I will work on editing, which is what I should be doing anyhow, but was not going to today. Editing is such a slow process, and no matter how many times I do it – there are several – I still find errors. One day soon, I will publish the thing, errors be damned.
It is now a couple of hours later. The noisy street in front of us is as still as though it was the dawn of creation. Nothing moves, no one walks about. The Puerto Vallerta news online tells us a story of the battles between the Cartel and the newly dead leader, as well as the forceful reaction of the Jalisco New Generation Cartel (JNGC) group of drug dealers to assert their dominance. The Cartel is known to have US advanced equipment, including rocket launchers, drones, helicopters, and is very well equipped — but by whom? We don’t ask or know to whom the arms sellers sell, do we?
By 4:00 pm we are hearing a fair amount of helicopter noise, and although there is only a little traffic, the airspace seems very busy.
This is a side of the city I have never seen/heard. It has suddenly changed from its usually carefree self, now buttoned up into hidey-holes. We can hear voices from the places around us – sound does travel, the chatter of people speaking together quietly inside these places set hip to hip the way they are. But, it is a communal sense of being polite and courteous together, not annoyance, perhaps a bit of shock that those forces would appear in this town. Common understanding and shared experience.
I have just heard the first vehicle, so perhaps someone is loosening the hold on the day. The news still says there is a recommendation for US citizens to shelter in place for now, and has photos of burned trucks showering the air in smoke and flames. Taxi, public transportation, and all airport services are suspended. Stores are burned out, cars and buses too, gutted. There is more to this story that is happening right in front of my face. I saw some of it, and will hope to venture out tomorrow for a better look.
I am sure it’s very unlike Puerto Vallarta, this violent battle between a government and the drug runners. People who’ve had this as their winter destination for multiple decades say they’ve never seen anything like this It must be tempting, surely, to be so close to the water that carries boats, so close to the demand for illegal drugs, so close to making lots of money, and being important in a world of danger. Can I just say how grateful I am that all of those attractions are not my world. It is good to have such a simple life that frozen water, a comfy bed, some spectacular greenery, and big chunk Skippy’s peanut butter, are sources of joy.
Short letter – breaking news blog, but wanted to share. This is exciting, and our friend Raul, who knows what Mexico rebellions are like, texted us immediately (he has insider information from Mexico, I think) to say, just stay where you are, for now, and let it all blow over. We are doing that, and will maybe eat Ramen noodles tonight. It’s not important, really.
Judy