Going by train and bus is easy, we said. Urban creatures that we are- urbane and sophisticated with world travel, we read that the UNESCO site called the ROLLI, would be open in Genova for a few days- those days while we are here nearby. We planned a lovely long day, and we got it even longer. It looked like this.
We met and left somewhat early, in order to get into downtown Genova by 10:30 AM, gathering at our Air B&B, driving to the train station, choosing, but missing the direct train, and getting there later. We took a subway from the train station, coming right up where we wanted to be in Ferreri square, the one with the large fountain in the middle – seemingly the center of access to all things Genovese. The art-chair that we watched being assembled last week has it’s spray-on clothes still, and more, it seems, as people are leaving their clothes on it too. Sporting torn tee shirts, some undies and a dress at least, all of it with the rather vague sense of dis-ease, about this art.
A few feet away was the church of the Gesu. Founded by Jesuits- still a functioning and active church ( did I tell you there are more than 400 churches in Genoa?) it now boasts, and well it might, many paintings and sculpures by Reubens- THAT Reubens. Churches are like museums here- full of passionate piety and spectacular artwork, proudly displayed. I lit my candles for my friend in that beautiful setting, although the candle was only an electric light, making me wonder — just a heretical brain-worm — if God hears better technologically, or if electrical rather than beeswax gets in the way.
We wandered along the caruggi, little narrow alleyways which sometimes became a bit seedy, since we had wandered into the red-light district, and then out onto streets filled with dining and shops. We discovered a great sandwich place, toasting with melted cheese that made us all pretty gooey ourselves with pleasure. We were hungry, and got lucky in our desperation to sit down- now! Lew wandered, as he does-free-range, and an hour or so went by with us in different parts of the old town. Lew was trying to find something and with the density of tall buildings, instead of going to the ROLLI palaces, he found himself at a ROLLI plaque far away, That’s about how it all went with geography today.
We found gelati in the middle of a rainstorm and used our umbrellas to eat standing against a building in pouring rain. It was delicious, thank you. There were Noah-type storms in the area, and I think they caused some damage, but nothing much we’ve seen. Ten years ago, two weeks after we’d left Cinque Terre, the towns were buried under 9 feet of mud, so there is some cause for concern.
By the time we got into an Information Genova shop, and deposited scads of money on fun Genova “stuff,” we finally began the tour of two of the palaces, late. It was being used as an art museum too, and we have seen a LOT of each room all vacant, hanging with priceless art, even heard a Paganini tune or two, and visited with a Paganini violin, and tons of priceless artwork. Did you know that most of where Jesus lived the children and even the putti were blondes? I’d never have thought that of Jerusalem, and the Middle East but great artists seem to see blonde holiness.We closed the place down and it had gotten dusky when we left, and aimed ourselves toward dinner.
And what a dinner it was! Gaia is perched in a dark alleyway, neon signage lighting up the stone buildings in a glowing circle. We were the third of three parties for the night. Great service, Great food-charoal-colored sauce from octopus ink is one of their specialities, but we focused on dramatic appetizer creations, and only the first dish. Then creative desserts. We closed this place down too.
Leaving, late, as it had been a 2 1/2 hour dinner, we remembered we still had to get back to Chiavari. Easy, we thought. We walked to the beat of the Google map guiding us, the one that had failed us before. Secretly a prickle of fear snuck up as we found ourselves in the middle of the late night set on a dark street.But, no problem. This time, we simply had to rely on the kindness of strangers, and found ourselves on a strange bus going toward the train station, everyone having remembered bathroom needs, after all the comforts were closed up. We tried to get on at the wrong entrance, — it was after ten where we were, and we woncdered how to get a train, even, could we get a train at this hour? Where would we go if we couldn’t? There were no signs of the massive Principe Train Station where we exited our bus, but the driver waved us off to the distance through the night’s dark confusion. First we walked through the park, then found train tracks, then discovered a parking lot, then wandered into the back door of a deserted train station with the only remaining scheduled train that night at 11:58. track 20, coach 2, five seats assigned by ticket that Lew bought on line. I love the train system.
Have we talked about Italian windows? They are amazing — why can’t we have nice windows in America? They are hinged so that the top angles out, or the whole thing rotates, or they close and open like doors, depending on your needs, with shutters on the outsides. So slick. Why don’t we have such a thing?
Since this was yesterday, today is my birthday, and I’ll celebrate that in a later post.